Julian Rocks, it’s a tiny, rocky pyramid that breaks up the view out to sea from Byron Bay. Every surfer’s contemplated paddling out there at some time or other, but it’s just that bit too far, mythically out of reach.
About 12 months ago there was a tasty little beach break down at the river-mouth. Only a handful of us knew about it and every morning, just after dawn, we’d all paddle out, conspirators to that most unique treat, uncrowded, glassy peelers. And… that’s where I first met Nich Zalmstra.
Shooting with film is so infuriating but so satisfying. The time it takes to finish a roll and to get it developed forces you to be spare with every shot and it ensures you’re frothing by the time you get the prints in you hands. Unfortunately it also means my stories come through a little late.
Le Sunshine is a child of the dawn; more addicted to that bright flash of light that glints off the ocean at dawn, than to the neon burn of night. But with 2013 coming to an end, we would endure the darkness and see it through to the end – with a camera, of course.
There’s something exciting about waking up not long after the sun and it already being stinking hot. The wax on your surfboard turns to butter and your car seat burns your bare legs and you sweat like a pig.
It’s not until you get to The Pass that it all comes together. The sun on the sand, the fading Northerlies and two foot of neatly lined up South swell tickling the rocky point…. Summer’s comin’!