Archive for October, 2012

  • Festival of stoke

    Byron bay surf festival

    With the swell pumping all week everyone was plenty warmed up for the Byron Bay Surf Festival. There were obscure board-shapes, lots of beards, Japanese journalists, a couple of leotards, a million smiles and more stoke than you can point an Alaia at.

    The morning started grey and stayed that way, but the sun did creep through the clouds to greet me, alone on the beach, at dawn. I shot over to Watego’s to catch a solid crew doing a paddle-out in honor of Donald Takayama, the board-shaping pioneer and all round lord who recently passed away.

    The car-park was full before 9am and soon the grass was covered in boards of every shape and colour and manner of construction. Long, short, tiny belly boards, vintage fabric inlays and hand-sewn gold strands. There were big guys on big boards in small speedos, there were surf comps and crew sliding without fins, there was even a workshop where the masters would help you craft your own hand-plain.

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  • Fiesta


    The sun keeps on rising, far more frequently than I have been able to post albums unfortunately. For today’s post I featured two different morning’s dawns. They were taken from different spots not that far away form each other, but each offered such different light. The sun is rising really far to the South at the moment so to see its first peak over the horizon you need to be South of the point, Suffolk Park is perfect. The swell was wind affected and the bank at the river mouth was the pick and there was a well worn trail through the sand before it even felt the day’s rays.

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  • Back at The Pass

    surfing byron bay

    Savage storms tore all the sand away from The Pass some months ago, it’s taken the whole of winter for the banks to gradually fill in. Day-by-day I’ve been watching the high tide line shift and swell and finally it seems to have got some shape back. This weekend a gentle two-feet of South swell pushed the long right-hander round the point and into the bay, a meager offering, but sweet relief.

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  • Sliding into Saturday


    Time was going slow on this lazy Saturday arvo, the waves were mellow and nobody seemed to be in any hurry. The horizon was splashed with jagged pastel shades as the sun sunk further away, it was a great show but I couldn’t help but feel that the view would’ve been even better if I’d been bobbing on a board in the line-up.

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