A Swell Day

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Killer sunrise this morning, there was a solid crew on Main Beach soaking in the day’s first rays, it crept up at the tip of the point and framed the bay perfectly. The word was that the swell would pick up today but it didn’t seem to be getting into the bay, so I shot down to Broken Head.

Broken Head loves an Easterly swell, it had been building all week and although it hadn’t made it into the bay it was pumping further to the South. There wasn’t much of a swell period and the sets were unforgiving so only those with in-form shoulders were making it through the barrage.

The point had the banks but the lines were coming in a little straight. It was a matter of surviving the sets that were breaking on the first bank and picking off the wide ones.

Heaps of stoke out there, what a swell day.

Enjoy Le Sunshine.

–J–

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  1. KARL says:

    AMAZING STUFF MAN. LOOKS PERFECT. LOVE THAT BACK LIGHT.

    Reply

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