All posts in Surfing

  • Camp Vibes

    Camp_life_05

    The road South was quiet as I drove through a corridor of faded green gum trees. The air was hot and the sun was bright, all four windows were down and the wind battled with the tunes blaring out of the speakers. I had camp vibes on my mind.

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  • The Pass at Last

    The pass

    There’s something exciting about waking up not long after the sun and it already being stinking hot. The wax on your surfboard turns to butter and your car seat burns your bare legs and you sweat like a pig.
    It’s not until you get to The Pass that it all comes together. The sun on the sand, the fading Northerlies and two foot of neatly lined up South swell tickling the rocky point…. Summer’s comin’!

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  • Heading South

    South 04

    Standing on the curb and I was still in a daze. I’d only been out of bed for ten minutes and here I was, standing in the same board shorts I’d slept in with a t-shirt thrown over my shoulders that smelt of smoke. At my feet were my surfboard, my wetsuit and a towel. I’d only had time to take a piss and brew a cuppa and now I stood calm in the fresh morning air, my hands wrapped around the hot mug.

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  • FLURO FRIDAY – One Wave Is All It Takes

    fluro friday

    It was Friday as I rolled down to The Pass, camera in hand. I was ready to see what the sunset had to say about the end of the week but what I got was far brighter.

    The FLURO FRIDAY crew had invaded Byron Bay and the glare was something special. This lot are colorful and they’re loud and they know all about how to have fun on a surfboard. But most importantly, they’re all about kicking depression in the ass!

    Take a look at the photos, just try and find a face that ain’t smiling!

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  • Miles and Miles

    Seven-mile_02

    The first bay we stopped at is my favourite. The track down to the water was framed by gangly trees and vines; the leaves were still wet from the rain overnight. We scrambled half-way down the hill only to see that the high tide was swallowing the entire beach. We headed back up to the car and I managed to squeeze off a few shots through the trees.

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  • Storm Light

    Storm_light_01_900

    The waves were small but the light was amazing. Dusk at the Wreck, looking to the North with the sun dropping behind Mt. Warning, is a beautiful Byron Bay cliché, but on this day it was a different view entirely.

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  • More Angourie Dawn

    Angourie

    My head was pounding but I sped up to a run nonetheless. Well not really running, more jogging awkwardly, trying to shake out stiff muscles from sleeping on a roll-mat and super keen to check the surf.

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  • Finding Winter

    Whites_winter_02

    There’s a little spot where you can see the water from the road. There’s only enough room for one car to pull-over, and you have to shimmy up one of the slender paper-barks if you want to see the beach. The scrub’s thick, so you mostly go by the swell-lines – that navy-blue corduroy that makes your balls tingle.

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