Evan’s Head for a burger

The car was covered in mud from the drive to Whites; splashes of brown painted every panel. The waves were weak and the wind was easterly, it wasn’t very satisfying so we’d decided to keep driving. We were heading south to Evan’s Head – for a burger.

The road follows the coast down to Lennox Head. Across the headlands you get broad views across the beaches; none of the spots had any waves. Once you pass Balina the highway runs inland and the sugar-cane fields take over. The landscape varies depending on the cycle of the harvest; from a thick mass of towering, shaggy stalks to barren stretches of spikey stumps.

The Pacific Highway was quiet. We took a left at Broadwater and drove through the National Park to Evan’s Head. We weren’t too sure why we’d chosen Evan’s; there was a faint hope that we’d find waves but we both knew it was unlikely.


The streets of the little town were quiet, the amber light of the afternoon made this already sleepy town seem even more desolate. There were a handful of cars parked on the main road, all clustered outside the pub. The take-away shop was open but it was deserted. We ordered burgers and chips and drinks and sat outside in the fading sun, to wait.


The newsagent had closed at midday and the supermarket and the pub were the only two other places open. The realities of small town living were painfully apparent and it made us appreciate the busy streets of Byron Bay; that we so often complained about.



We balanced our hoard of fried foods on our knees and beside the gear stick. We cruised quietly towards the beach and parked with a handful of other cars.


Another thing about small towns is that you get a hell of a lot more hot chips for four bucks than in a touristy spot like Byron. We hadn’t surfed a great deal, we certainly hadn’t worked up a hunger to match the pile of grease we’d ordered. We ate with a view across the beach, the waves were tiny and the wind blew strong onshore.

We checked a few more spots but it was much the same junky wind swell.

With the sun going down the drive home was splashed with a purple and orange horizon. We drove slowly and stopped whenever we needed to.

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We didn’t chat much on the way home. We were tired and our belly’s were full and the windows were open blowing loud on our faces.


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